0600 Change of Watch

It had been a dark night, very dark, and damp too, no rain, just some spray, but mostly that clammy damp that makes everything feel wet. Even the dawn seemed late.

Across the water they came. Streaks of grey, travelling at enormous speed, twisting and turning like sidewinder missiles, only to dive, or turn, or erupt from the water to avoid the otherwise inevitable collision. They were small dolphins, the smallest we have seen, but these had not come to play. They were not riding our bow-wave. They were on a feeding frenzy.

Attracted by the lights of the boat, the tuna recognised their danger too late. In their desperate bids for freedom they burst from the depths like fireworks to avoid the rockets that were chasing them. Mouths open the dolphin contorted in the air, snapping their beaks shut on their fast food breakfast.

It was awesome to watch. The dolphin worked as a team, some corralling their prey into bait-balls, while others attacked from below. Avocette was “front row in the circle”, a fantastic view.

The Ria de Arousa is huge, a great sunken river valley, surrounded by mountains in which nestle clusters of pretty white-walled houses with traditional terracotta roofs. We are in Vilagarcia, a town 18 miles from the sea, steeped in history, with its castles, convents, and markets. Fishing is big here, and fish-farms abound. I think we should sample their wares…