Heading North - Single-handed

The Weather Gods had not been reading their rule book! My planned departure north was thwarted by NE 30-35kts and leaden skies. I was going nowhere! Had I cleared out of St Lucia only to become an illegal immigrant? For two days I left my anchor stuck firmly in the mud of the Lagoon.

The sail to Martinique was exhilarating. Still the wind was NE, but now the more usual 20-22kts. A fast 20 mile fetch in 2-3m seas, a tack, and it was engine on, sails down, and into Le Marin. France in the Caribbean. And France it was; Boulangeries, Euros, and expensive beer. Did I like it? Non! But I had come to pick-up Scott, a new crew. I cleared in, and we cleared out, first to St Pierre, then across to Portsmouth, in Dominica.

Polite and courteous, these boat-boys have got themselves organised. The Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security (PAYS) is a well conceived, well organised group of local lads who want to make a difference. They lay moorings, organise security 24/7, lay on water and road taxis, and arrange tours. They are a breath of fresh air in the Caribbean.

Rowing us up the Indian River, through the mangrove swamp, Alexis (PAYS) brought the history of the island, its people, and wildlife to us. He introduced us to Grey Herons, Green Kingfishers, and Hummingbirds. Huge White Crabs scuttled away, while Iguanas sat placidly waiting, like us, for the rain to stop, and the sun to come out. Tree ferns, as old as the dinosaurs, flowers of unbelievable brilliance, mangroves, and mahogany, towered over us, surrounded us, and dripped on us. Hidden amongst their roots the boa constrictors, mountain chickens (a frog) and termites continued their lives uninterrupted.

The original inhabitants of these lands, the Caribs, are still here. Proud of their heritage, and maintaining their traditions, our guide, Shadow (everyone has a nickname out here) drove us around his island. From rain forest to beach, village to waterfall, we enjoyed them all. We ate cassava bread, fresh cooked on an open fire, drank coconut milk (from both fresh green coconuts and brown nuts), and learnt how the banana tree only produces one hand of fruit in its lifetime.

From Dominica it was a great sail under a blue sky to the beautiful islands of Les Saintes - the only islands in the Caribbean never to have had slaves working in the fields. It was great to catch-up with friends again. "Ganhoa" with Louis and Jose, from Portugal were there….. well it would be rude not to invite them on board.

No longer am I heading south and west, but up - north! No more "Pirates of the Caribbean. Worse, far worse….to Antigua, and yes, that means the "Tot Club"!

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