It´s Chilly Here....

It was our second night out from the Canaries, heading for the Cape Verde Islands, in the Tropics. Great handfuls of Neptune’s diamonds (bioluminescence) sparkled in the foam and inky-black water as we surfed down 3m waves in 20kts of easterly breeze. Above us, Orion watched our progress as he silently marched westwards across the heavens. The first day’s run had been a rolling and noisy 100miles, but now we are making 150miles a day. It’s chilly today – I had to wear a t-shirt!

Life settles into a routine very quickly on an ocean passage. 3hrs on, 6hrs off, maintenance, cleaning, cooking, all have their place. The SSB radio is invaluable. Each day I download a synoptic chart, and a grib file, of the weather for our area of the North Atlantic Ocean. I also send a position report (To see it, Google: yotreps and search for avocette).

Then the wind dropped, the temperature soared, and the engine went on. Light NE winds returned and we sailed into Palmeira, on the Ilha do Sal.

The anchorage was much busier than we had expected with some twenty French, German, Swiss, and Belgium boats already at anchor. Entry formalities were simple, and the place delightful. Friendly locals smiled and waved as they queued to collect water from the “Fontana” – a tap in a blue building that is unlocked each morning if the water tanker has delivered the water! The houses have no piped water, few have electricity. Roads in the village are either cobbled, a legacy of the islands earlier Portuguese ownership, or dirt tracks. Only the main road to the capital is tarmac.

In the capital, Espargos, bare footed women carry their loads in great baskets balanced on their heads, whilst children play in the streets.

Watching the men return from fishing always creates a buzz. The fishing is good. Sailfish, marlin, dorado, tuna…… So far I have hooked, and lost, two big fish, but landed only one smallish tuna – but it was delicious.

Big money is moving into the islands. The all-inclusive holiday is starting to dominate the beautiful beaches on southern parts of the islands – I bet they have running water!

We moved south to Boa Vista, the next island in the chain. Very similar. The supermarkets have little to sell. No bread. There is a small bakery for the tourists. No fresh or UHT milk. Only powdered is available for sale.

Sorry there are no photos at the moment. I cant get them to load.

We head back to Sal tomorrow as John has to fly home.