Wednesday 22 December 2010

An Archipelago with red bananas

Whilst one or two of the boat-boys were a bit in-your-face, the people are friendly, welcoming, and cheerful. Shopping is a novel experience. There is little to buy. It’s difficult to buy anything in these islands, except red bananas. Postcards don’t exist, meat scarce (fresh non-existent), even bread is difficult to find. Worse still, the local beer comes in 20cl bottles!!!!!
In contrast, I watch in horror, at the lifestyle of the tourist, flown into their “All Inclusive” then driven around in the hotels dessert-camouflaged land rovers, like going to the zoo, to see the “natives”. A perverse twist on the islands past history, and forced involvement in, the slave trade!
It was good to leave behind the lunar landscape of Ilha do Sal (the airfield is actually a designated divert for the space shuttle; should it ever be used the astronauts would be justifiably confused), and the Island of Boa Vista, described as a little bit of the Sahara adrift in the Atlantic.
Arriving in Tarrafal, on the Island of Sao Nicolau, we were met with the same beaming smiles, warm welcome, and empty shelves. A trip to the barbers gave the locals a laugh too.
But this island is different. Near vertical cliffs, ripped open by the wind and, because of its height, rain, reveal a dramatic landscape. Trees and shrubs compete with sugar cane and maize on the steep slopes. Falcons, and swifts, soar around the summits. Huge butterflies, as big as saucers, decorate the flowers. Other inhabitants though, are less appealing. The spiders, wasps, and bee-like insects are just as big!
It was a rough, bouncy trip in the Aluguer, a pick-up truck that does the job of taxi/bus/delivery van, to Monte Gordo and a long hard climb to the summit, but the view was worth it. The lsles of Sao Anton, Sao Vincete, Luzia, Branco, and Razo lay spread across the ocean.
We are now in Mindelo, on the Ilha da Sao Vincente, where we will spend Xmas, and prepare the boat for the crossing. Listening to the almost constant heavy beat of African rhythms echoing from the houses, sitting under the hot sun, it’s strange to see Christmas trees (plastic), and tinsel on the balconies. As for carols sung in Creole…..still, I guess someone has to do it.
It will be strange without family and friends. Have a good one, and a Happy New Year.

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