Rock ‘n Roll in the Anchorage. Rock n Roll in the Hills

The anchorage at Montserrat is small and sheltered from the wind – but not the swell!


Montserrat’s volcano is still smoking. Clouds of steam and ash are being thrown up around the clock, and scientists at the observatory issue regular updates on the likelihood of another eruption.


The last in 1995 devastated the capital Plymouth, burying it under a pyroclastic river of ash. Only the spires and roofs of the bigger houses show above the flow.

The little “bungalow” with the red roof (bottom left of centre) is actually the top floor of a two story house, and we walked up to, then onto the roof, and looked in. Shoes and other personal effects still lay partially buried in the ash.


The north of the island is still beautiful. Covered in rich woodland, we walked up (extinct) volcanoes, saw the Montserrat Orioles - beautiful birds, unique to the island, humming birds, hawks, butterflies, iguanas, and agoutis (like an overgrown guinea pigs crossed with a rabbit).

We tried the local food, Goat Water, their version of Irish stew, and coconut pasties, then visited he recording studio.Spools of sound recording tape, mainly unused, littered the floor in the derelict Air Studios where Sir George Martin had recorded some of the most famous bands of the sixties and seventies, including the Beatles.

So Clear, I can see the colour of the coral 60ft below!

Sailing through the rock and coral reefs, in the often crystal clear waters of Antigua is a world apart from the muddy creeks of the Solent. As we drop anchor we're hailed by another yacht. Betsy, a Bowman 40 from Portchester SC, first met us when I dropped anchor alongside them in Newtown Creek., now it's Nonsuch Bay! Like a beer?

The snorkelling has been fantastic. Great coral heads rise from the depths. Brain, staghorn, fan, and tube corals give shelter to a vast variety of fish. Big groupers sulk in their shadows, while huge shoals cruise around, darting this way, then that. The colours are amazing: electric blue, silver, yellow, striped, pastel, spotted - the list is as endless as the variety.

Antigua is the most expensive Island I have visited. US$35 to clear in, and the same to clear out. Ten times the cost of the other islands, and Martinique was free. None the less it's my second home, and I have many friends here and so it was that we were invited out to Franks boat "Ilandia"for a Tot. He's got a Yongert 40 - that metres, not feet, and she's actually 170ft overall, so there was plenty of space for all.

There are many of the Superyachts here now. They are gathering for Classic Week. Many of the older ones can often be seen out sailing, working-up for the racing. It's a truly spectacular sight to see the grace, power, and beauty of these old classics. Acres of sail set, they thunder past, tack, gybe, and reach off towards Guardeloupe or Montserrat. I can't wait to be racing against them again.

The weather Gods must have taken heed and read the rule book at last. It has stopped raining, and the winds have dropped to Easterly (is there another direction)12-15 kts. The temperature has also dropped. Gone is the scorching heat and high humidity. Now it's a comfortable 28'C, and the skies are blue. I guess it's getting better back home too!!

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Barbuda -Nobody knows it's here!

The Island of Barbuda lies 30 miles north of Antigua surrounded by reefs. A low coral atoll, rarely visited, it probably has the best beaches in the Caribbean. Half the size of Antigua, the population of just two thousand is clearly out-numbered by the Frigate birds, Pelicans, and Booby's. Donkeys wander the streets, horses and deer the open spaces, so different from it's volcanic neighbours.

We spent a day enjoying its delights. A walk around the Capital took only half an hour. A walk along the beach took a lot longer, there's eleven miles of it. Elley, a local fisherman, cooked us lunch on an open fire, and a swim in the turquoise waters. Its deserted here, there are no tourists, no hotels, just a few yachts that call. Sundowners on the warm coral sand, supper on the boat, and the rhythmic sound of the surf as company.

Swamps & Oceans, Portsmouth, Dominica

Heading North - Single-handed

The Weather Gods had not been reading their rule book! My planned departure north was thwarted by NE 30-35kts and leaden skies. I was going nowhere! Had I cleared out of St Lucia only to become an illegal immigrant? For two days I left my anchor stuck firmly in the mud of the Lagoon.

The sail to Martinique was exhilarating. Still the wind was NE, but now the more usual 20-22kts. A fast 20 mile fetch in 2-3m seas, a tack, and it was engine on, sails down, and into Le Marin. France in the Caribbean. And France it was; Boulangeries, Euros, and expensive beer. Did I like it? Non! But I had come to pick-up Scott, a new crew. I cleared in, and we cleared out, first to St Pierre, then across to Portsmouth, in Dominica.

Polite and courteous, these boat-boys have got themselves organised. The Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security (PAYS) is a well conceived, well organised group of local lads who want to make a difference. They lay moorings, organise security 24/7, lay on water and road taxis, and arrange tours. They are a breath of fresh air in the Caribbean.

Rowing us up the Indian River, through the mangrove swamp, Alexis (PAYS) brought the history of the island, its people, and wildlife to us. He introduced us to Grey Herons, Green Kingfishers, and Hummingbirds. Huge White Crabs scuttled away, while Iguanas sat placidly waiting, like us, for the rain to stop, and the sun to come out. Tree ferns, as old as the dinosaurs, flowers of unbelievable brilliance, mangroves, and mahogany, towered over us, surrounded us, and dripped on us. Hidden amongst their roots the boa constrictors, mountain chickens (a frog) and termites continued their lives uninterrupted.

The original inhabitants of these lands, the Caribs, are still here. Proud of their heritage, and maintaining their traditions, our guide, Shadow (everyone has a nickname out here) drove us around his island. From rain forest to beach, village to waterfall, we enjoyed them all. We ate cassava bread, fresh cooked on an open fire, drank coconut milk (from both fresh green coconuts and brown nuts), and learnt how the banana tree only produces one hand of fruit in its lifetime.

From Dominica it was a great sail under a blue sky to the beautiful islands of Les Saintes - the only islands in the Caribbean never to have had slaves working in the fields. It was great to catch-up with friends again. "Ganhoa" with Louis and Jose, from Portugal were there….. well it would be rude not to invite them on board.

No longer am I heading south and west, but up - north! No more "Pirates of the Caribbean. Worse, far worse….to Antigua, and yes, that means the "Tot Club"!

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