Journey to the Centre of the Earth

Just a stones throw from the edge of the Island (there is no beach) the sea is 2 miles deep. Looking up, the peaks of the volcanos are over 1850m high, shrouded by mist and cloud. I ski at lower altitudes!

Maderia was formed by fire at the beginning of time. Cooled by the rains, it is covered with vegetation. Man has since laced the island with roads. Narrow,windy roads hug the near vertical edges into the heart of the island; tunnels boared through the rock carry motorways of speading traffic through the hills. Houses, some the traditional triangular, but most pastel painted concrete, cling precariously on the edge, perched hundreds of meters above the rivers on the valley floors. There is precious little flat ground anywhere. The sign in the supermarket lift, a gentle reminder of the islands birth, "Do not use in an earthquake".

The walking is fantastic. 900m meters up the side of the cliff the Levada, a man-made water course, runs around the mountain. The retaining wall forms the path. Often 2m, but frequently only half a metre wide, the path winds round the mountain for 6.5km. The cliff towers hundreds of metres above - and drops hundreds of metres to the valley floor below. Trees grow out, almost at right-angles to get to the light.

Crouched over, torches on, we enter another tunnel; rough-hewn with pick and shovel, the Levada carries the water on its way. Later, sitting beside the plunge pool, enchanted and over-awed, as water cascaded 70m meters from one of the many waterfalls, we sat and ate our lunch.

The coastal cliff walks are equally spectacular. Saddles link a string of volcanos, the paths sometimes going over, sometimes around, constantly revealing exciting views.

Not content with walking over, or around, we walked into the volcano. Discovered only 50yrs ago, the tunnels created by lava flows lead deep into the mountain. Now open to all, they're fascinating, and very well supported by films and displays. As for the two Ronnies...the film was good too.

But we must move on. Ilhas Desertas, and the Ilhas Selvagens beckon.