Gales with attitude!

Last nights storm was the third in two days and rolled in with a vengence. Pontoon cleats sheared off as mooring lines snatched bar-tight with the forces generated by the send (waves), that bent around the headland, and rolled in through the open south facing harbour entrance. Thankfully our preparations were sufficient. We suffered no more that a snapped shoreline and a poor nights sleep.

Windguru had forecast 50kts then ammended the prediction to 34kts. His first was more accurate!

Its raining now, but things are quietening down. Hopefully we will get away tomorrow.

New Crew & a Change of Plan

In the distance, the brown volcanic hills of Gran Canaria were a stark contrast to the lush green of La Palma that we had left just hours earlier. It was Moira’s last chance to catch a fish, and she did it in style. Not content with a nice tuna, she followed it up with a monster dorado. We ate well for the next few days.
Arriving in Las Palmas, the marina was full. Boats were gathering for the ARC. We found a slot in the anchorage and dropped the hook. It was time for a crew change. Moira to Lanzarote, to join another boat, and my daughter Nicki, with friend Liza were flying in. Sun was on order. First they tried the foredeck, then it was the turn of the beach. To my utter surprise they also wanted to go sailing, and fishing!
We slipped out of harbour, hoisted sails, and enjoyed a rolling reach 40 miles down the coast to the tourist trap of Puerto Rico. The girls could walk ashore and were soon vying with the Scandinavians for sun loungers on the beach and cocktails in the noisy bars.
The marina was great with boats of all nationalities, each preparing for their own next leg. I lifted Avocette again to replace the anodes, and finished fabricating a short bowsprit from which to fly the asymmetric kite. There’s a great little chandlery there too.
WE should have been heading for The Gambia next, but the talk was of Senegalese pirates, so we opted instead to explore the western islands of the Canaries.
La Gomera is a pleasant island, tourism is low-key. Buses leave on time and are cheap, so we have walked some of its dramatic hills, valleys, and cliffs while we wait for some vigorous Atlantic depressions to pass. The next is just rolling in. Thankfully the 50kt winds originally forecast are not now predicted to be greater than 35kts. We shall see……………..

We sat in the clouds to cool down

Slipping out of Quinto do Lorde, Madeira we unrolled the headsail, engaged Carly the hydrovane and romped-off towards the Ilhas Desertas. The NE force 5/6 sent us scuttling bye, able only to enjoy the view from a safe distance-off. Frequent gusts to 35kts and a 4m swell had us surging down the waves at a respectable 6.5-7kts. The cork-screw motion made life uncomfortable. We had to miss the Selvagem Islands - a marine nature reserve for which we had permits, so we also missed the rare monk seals too. 277 miles and 47 hrs later, but now back in hot sunshine, we tied-up in the marina in Santa Cruz, on the island of La Palma in the Canaries.

Unlike the eastern islands, La Palma is green. The spectacular volcanoes rise to a staggering 2426m. The walks are awesome. Advertised for "expert walkers who do not suffer from vertigo", they deliver exactly what they say!! Sitting on the top, looking down on the clouds,tumbling on air currents, like the primordial gases that had erupted with the magma, we sat humbled as ravens and buzzards soared around us. We left only when the cool clouds enveloped us. Behind us, some 60 miles away, Tenerife silently poked its even higher cone towards the sky.

With mischievous humour, the people of La Palma enjoy a satirical poke at Napoleon. French pirates had repeatedly returned to rape and pillage. Then, after Boney himself, had had a pop at invading the island, only to repulsed, sent running, his tail firmly between his legs, did they celebrated, and they still do. Throughout the island there are representations, a statue, and even an annual festival where Bonaparte, depicted as comical little clown in a huge hat, is irreverently the centre of attention.

We leave tomorrow for the Island of Gran Canaria, and the World Music Festival, so maybe its time to wander the cobbled streets of the old town for one last beer or perhaps an icecream..